Degrease Kitchen Cabinets for Painting: Pro Prep Guide

To degrease kitchen cabinets for painting, you must remove all surface oils, cooking splatter, and tactile grime using a dedicated emulsifier like TSP, Krud Kutter, or a concentrated dish soap solution. This process ensures the primer bonds to the substrate rather than sitting on a slippery film of oil, preventing future peeling and “alligatoring” of the finish.

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Why Degreasing is the Non-Negotiable First Step

If you talk to any professional cabinet refinisher, they will tell you that 90% of a flawless finish happens before the paint can is even opened. In a kitchen environment, cabinets are constantly bombarded by aerosolized cooking oils, steam, and skin oils from frequent handling.

Painting over grease is a recipe for failure. Because most modern cabinet paints are water-based or water-borne alkyds, they are naturally repelled by oils. If you skip this step, you will likely encounter:

• Adhesion Failure: The paint literally slides off or peels in large sheets within weeks.

• Fish-eyes: Small, crater-like pits where the wet paint pulls away from greasy spots.

• Stain Bleed-through: Old grease can seep through the new topcoat, leaving yellow or brown discolorations that no amount of paint can hide.

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The Best Degreasers for Kitchen Cabinets: A Comparison

Not every product is designed for heavy-duty grease removal. Depending on the age of your cabinets and the “cooking intensity” of your kitchen, you may need anything from a mild soap to an industrial solvent.

Degreaser Type	Best For…	Pro Advantage	The Downside
TSP (Trisodium Phosphate)	Heavy buildup / Professional prep	Etches the surface for better grip	Requires heavy rinsing and PPE
Krud Kutter / Zinsser	Medium-to-heavy grease	Fast-acting; many are non-toxic	Can be more expensive than DIY
Degreasing Dish Soap	Light-to-medium maintenance	Safe, cheap, and readily available	Requires more physical scrubbing
Mineral Spirits	Wax, polish, or silicone buildup	Dissolves stubborn residues	Flammable; high VOCs/fumes
Citrus-Based Cleaners	General grime	Pleasant smell; eco-friendly	Can leave an oily residue if not rinsed

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Step-by-Step: How to Degrease Kitchen Cabinets for Painting

1. Preparation and Hardware Removal

Never attempt to degrease cabinets while they are still hanging with hardware attached. Grease hides behind hinges and under handles—exactly where your fingers touch most often.

• Take off all cabinet doors and drawer faces before you begin.

• Bag your hardware. Label everything so you aren’t playing a guessing game during reassembly.

• Set up a “Cleaning Station.” A garage or a cleared-out dining room with drop cloths is ideal.

2. The First Pass: Removing the “Bulk” Grime

Start with a warm solution of degreasing dish soap (like Dawn) and water. Use a non-scratch scrub pad to break the surface tension of the grease.

Expert Insight: Focus heavily on the areas around the stove and the “touch zones” around handles. If the water turns black or brown immediately, you’ve just saved your paint job from certain death.

3. The Deep Clean: Chemical Emulsification

For the serious work, use a professional-grade degreaser.

• Using TSP: Mix the powder with hot water according to the box instructions. Wipe the cabinets down using a sponge, working from bottom to top to avoid streak marks. TSP doesn’t just clean; it “de-glosses” the finish, giving the primer a “tooth” to bite into.

• Using Krud Kutter: Spray directly onto the surface, let it dwell for 1–2 minutes (don’t let it dry), and wipe away. It’s a “no-rinse” formula, but for painting, a quick water wipe is still recommended.

4. The Solvent Wipe (For Stubborn Cases)

If the cabinets feel “gummy” even after washing, they likely have a buildup of furniture polish or wax. Saturate a clean, lint-free rag with Mineral Spirits and wipe the surface. This is the only way to ensure silicone-based polishes are completely removed.

5. The Critical Rinse and Dry

Any leftover cleaning agent is just as bad as the grease itself.

• Wipe everything down with a fresh cloth and clean, clear water.

• Dry immediately. Do not let water sit on MDF or wood joinery, as it can cause swelling.

• Wait 24 Hours. The wood must be bone-dry before you move to the sanding and priming phase.

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3 Professional “Field Tests” to Ensure Your Cabinets are Ready

How do you know if you’re actually done? Don’t guess. Use these three methods:

1. The White Glove Test: Wipe a clean, white microfiber cloth across the surface. If it comes back with even a hint of yellow or grey, keep cleaning.

2. The “Squeak” Test: Glide your finger slowly across the cabinet surface. It should feel “grabby” and produce a high-pitched squeak. If your finger slides smoothly, there is still a film present.

3. The Water Bead Test: Mist a tiny amount of water on a cleaned area. If the water beads up like it’s on a waxed car, there is still oil or wax present. If it flattens out and “wets” the surface, you are ready to sand.

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Essential Safety and Gear List

Degreasing involves chemicals and repetitive motion. Don’t overlook your own “prep.”

• Chemical-Resistant Gloves: Standard latex will melt under some degreasers.

• Eye Protection: Splashing TSP in your eye is a quick way to end your weekend project.

• Ventilation: Especially if using solvents or citrus sprays, keep the airflow moving.

• Abrasive Pads: Use “Green” Scotch-Brite pads for cleaning, but switch to fine-grit sandpaper ($220+$ grit) only after the surface is dry.

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